Laying floor tiles is a job for a professional tiler or a really competent DIY fanatic because it normally requires particular tools and a certain quantity of skill to get it looking perfect. Laying a square or rectangular shaped tile may seem relatively straightforward but the difficulties arise when tiles should be reduce (as they always do) and formed round obstacles in the room. Cutting hard tiles equivalent to porcelain floor tiles or some types of natural stone is a job that only professional equipment can do properly. It’s attainable to hire the fitting equipment but that can be expensive and there’s still a risk of ruining expensive porcelain tiles with a bad cut.

If you are confident enough to put in your floor tiles your self, or whether you have employed a professional tiler, a very powerful thing to do first is prepare the surface onto which the tiles will be laid.

If the prevailing floor is concrete then the job will be quite straightforward – the mortar could be applied directly to the floor and the tiles laid on top.

If the prevailing floor is wooden then the solution is less easy – cement backer units (CBU) used with a moisture-proof membrane are a good selection for a wall tile substrate in wet areas and are often additionally used with a view to strengthen a floor and provide a moisture barrier between the tiling and undermendacity wood. However cement backer units will not entirely forestall bending of a wooden floor under the weight of very heavy floor tiles. For very heavy tiles being installed over a wooden floor a plywood substrate will be needed.

As soon as the substrate is prepared the world must be measured and the format on your tile measurement deliberate and marked out. A cement based mostly adhesive (thinset mortar) is then utilized in sections to the substrate with a trowel and each floor tile laid on top utilizing the marked guidelines and plastic tile spacers to maintain even gaps between the tiles for the grout. The advantage of a thinset mortar is that it would not dry too quickly so you can shift the tiles slightly to get the right layout.

As each part of floor tiles is laid the level must be checked with a large spirit level because floors are hardly ever solely flat. Extra mortar can be used to even out areas where there’s a slight distinction in level.

For hard tiles akin to porcelain tiles a wet noticed with a diamond blade is used to chop them around fixed obstacles corresponding to sanitary ware, pipes and doorways.

Once all of the tiles have been laid go away the mortar to dry thoroughly before starting to fill the gaps between them with grout. There are three completely different types of grout available:

Unsanded – for grout joints less than 3mm wide

Sanded – for grout joints with a width of 3mm or more

Epoxy – a waterproof and stain resistant grout for any width of grout joint

Choosing the proper type of grout for porcelain floor tiles will give a professional finish but will also reduce the amount of maintenance required, and if it is properly sealed it will final for so long as the porcelain tiles themselves.

Keep away from walking on the floor until the grout has completely dried – this can take as much as 2 days relying on the thickness of your tiles and on the width of the grout joints.

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