Lately, I’ve been seeing a number of sewists make their own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-however there’s one detail that I don’t need to include in my me-made underwear: elastic.

If you’ve ever made underwear before, you most likely know that many finishing methods for the legholes and waistline embrace elastic, both fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t know about you, but none of my prepared-to-wear underwear have elastic within the legs-and typically they don’t in the waist either. This is the type of underwear I like finest.

So, the place does this depart me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, but I want to make my own underwear. This is where knit bands come into play for me. If you have any inquiries relating to where and exactly how to use woven elastic band (http://auto-file.org/member.php?action=profile&uid=370778), you could call us at the web site. I’m going to show you how one can swap elastic for a knit band to finish your underwear!

You’ll Need:

– Fabric

– Pattern

– Tape measure

– Ruler

– Extra paper

– Pencil

How one can Draft and Sew a Knit Band

Let’s do that.

Be sure that your fabric meets the stretch necessities acknowledged in the sample you’re using. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.

If you’re using a Seamwork pattern, it includes a stretch guide that can assist you see if the fabric you need to use has enough stretch in it. Listed below are some Seamwork patterns you should use:

– The Geneva panties are a traditional alternative, especially if you need to make use of stretch lace.

– The Kaye shorts are good for biker-short type underwear.

– The Dana underwear would work well with a knit band as an alternative of elastic.

– The brand new (and free!) Flo interval underwear. You can make these without the absorbent fabric if you want to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.

Cut your pattern out and sew together all the basic pieces. Here is my constructed garment apart from the leg holes and waist.

Measure the leg opening and waistline that will help you decide how lengthy your knit bands need to be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I should do some math.

Ugh, math!? I do know-it’s not my favourite, but we bought this!

You want some math because for those who reduce the knit band the same length because the leg gap or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic end. You want to find the perfect amount of damaging ease for your knit band to stay in place and match securely-however comfortably-to your body.

I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-right here at Seamwork, and she suggested me to follow a easy equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the total circumference of the opening.

I want to emphasise that 90% is a suggestion and a very good place to begin! Depending in your fabric’s recovery, you could have to do some testing to get the best circumference. You can at all times baste your band to your underwear to check the match first.

So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I minimize my leg bands at 24 3/four inches.

My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I cut my waistband at 31 inches.

I would like my bands to be a bit wider, so I minimize them 2 inches extensive, but you can make them a bit narrower or wider. Try not to go beneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. Should you minimize your bands too narrow, they may need some extra bulk on the seam allowance. In case you minimize them too vast, you might have issues fitting your gusset.

Sew the 2 short ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to one aspect. Helpful trace: If you’re utilizing a serger, use only one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.

Press the band in half lengthwise.

With fallacious sides collectively, baste the raw edge.

With proper sides together, pin the knit band evenly alongside the leg hole. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.

A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.

Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/8 inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You may see this in motion in this video tutorial for including a knit band on our YouTube channel.

Press the seam allowance in the direction of the underwear and topstitch with a slim zigzag to carry the seam allowance in place.

Now repeat that same course of in your different leg gap and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!

Taylor Pruitt

UX Designer

Taylor has an eye fixed for design. As the Product Manager for elastic webbing Seamwork, she wants to verify your on-line experiences are fun and fulfilling.