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Adobe Photoshop CS6 is referred to as Photoshop CC in the books written by Adobe: _Adobe Photoshop CC For Dummies,_ by Debra M. Bell and David R. Finigan (Wiley); and _Adobe Photoshop CC For Beginners: From Concept to Photo Manipulation,_ by David Israel and Mark Newman (Wiley).
## Creating Images with Photoshop
Photos are traditionally printed on photosensitive paper. That type of paper is called _photographic paper._ However, when you get it home, you can scan the paper to make it look like a photograph.
But wait — the scan isn’t a photo; it’s a bitmap image with no color information. (See the preceding section, «Exploring the Scanners and Cameras in the Modern Photo Digital Age,» for more about bitmaps versus images.) Now you need to _transfer_ that image from the scanner into Photoshop to apply special effects and other adjustments. (See the nearby sidebar «Exploring the Scanner and Camera in the Modern Photo Digital Age» for a more detailed description of bitmaps and images.)
Here’s a step-by-step guide to the process of creating photos that you can then scan and take to a photo lab to be printed on photographic paper:
1. **Start Photoshop.**
If the program is currently running, you can click the icon at the top of the screen to open it. If not, double-click the Photoshop icon in the Windows taskbar to launch it.
2. **Load a ready-to-use photograph.**
Select the image in the Photoshop workspace by clicking on the little arrow in the bottom-left corner of the window. You’ll see all the tools at your disposal for manipulating the photograph, as shown in Figure 2-1.
If you create an image on a smart phone or tablet, store it on the phone or tablet and then upload it to your computer, the process is the same except that you may see a different icon in the bottom-left of the workspace for the start screen of Photoshop on the device.
3. **Format the photograph as you would any other photograph.**
Click the Window menu and select Image. Then navigate to Edit⇒Image⇒Adjustments⇒Basic. Select the Grid and Deskew tools. Click OK, and then select the Crop tool. The Crop tool is on the toolbar, or
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In this tutorial, you will learn how to use the Photoshop adjustment brush to adjust the tone of the clothing on a woman’s head in a photo. You will also learn how to create a stylish outfit using Photoshop and how to add a frame around a photo with the simple Rectangle Tool, and how to combine a couple of images together to make a photo collage.
Tutorial Details
This tutorial was written using Photoshop CC and Photoshop CC Extended. It was built from scratch on a MacBook Pro running macOS High Sierra 10.13.4.
You need Photoshop and Photoshop Elements installed on your computer.
The principles in this tutorial apply to both versions of Photoshop and Photoshop Elements, but I show you how to do it using Photoshop Elements for a simpler experience.
License
All the images in this tutorial are my property and are copyrighted by me. They are used by me and my students for personal and educational purposes. If you wish to use an image in this tutorial, please ask me to get a license first.
How to Use Adjustment Brushes
Before starting to edit images, it is good to know how adjustment brushes work.
You can adjust the tone of colors in an image using the values in the HSL color wheel.
The HSL color wheel represents all the colors in an image using a color that has three components: Hue (the color that dominates), Saturation (how bright or intense the color is), and Lightness (how light or dark the color is).
The range of the HSL color wheel is 0 to 360 degrees, which is split into 12 zones, each one having a different color:
Red: 0° to 45°
Green: 45° to 135°
Yellow: 135° to 225°
Orange: 225° to 315°
Amber: 315° to 360°
This color wheel can be used to access the different levels of the image’s colors and create a whole range of different effects.
To access the different zones, you can adjust the color area using the Hue and Saturation sliders of the Levels palette.
To change the color of an object on the image, you can use the levels as follows:
Click on the Levels button on the Levels palette.
Click on the eyedropper tool, which is a paintbrush in the middle of the palette.
In this example, the eyed
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Molecular structural analysis of the rhizobial nifA/nifB promoter and identification of regulatory elements required for filamentous-nodule-specific expression.
Filamentous nodule formation (ON) in leguminous plants such as soybean and Vigna is regulated by a complex interplay of transcriptional and post-transcriptional mechanisms. We show here that the nifA-nifB operon of Rhizobium etli CFN42 is transcribed from two promoters, Ptr and Ptr2, which are differentially regulated in response to host plant-derived signals. Promoter activity of the nifA2 gene was assessed in both growth conditions. Ptr is active in the free-living and biovar vignae rhizobia, and Ptr2 in the symbiotic rhizobia. In R. etli CFN42, the nifA-nifB operon is transcribed by both promoters. Mutation of the -35 and -10 sequences of the nifA-nifB promoter affected Ptr and Ptr2 activity, and the interactions between both promoters were studied in vitro and in vivo. We show that NtrC recognizes the ntr box of Ptr and ntr box of Ptr2 and promotes nifA expression. The new box element, nifBS1, is related to the ntr boxes of the nod loci and nifA expression. The in vitro and in vivo results indicate that, in R. etli CFN42, NtrC is responsible for the activation of nifA expression, under both nitrogen-fixing and non-nitrogen-fixing conditions.Q:
Ugly code creating a grid of urls
I’m creating a simple api with the ServiceStack API. I’ve been asked to create an ugly and confusing set of code and I’m stumped.
Here’s what I need to do. I have a url that looks like
I need to make a grid of urls that looks like etc.
Here’s the ugly bit of code:
using System;
using System.Web.UI;
namespace ServiceStack
{
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Q:
What’s the best way to recover damaged GaAs in a DIY tape recorder?
I’ve been working on a very low-cost DIY audio recorder for several years. I’m using a washed up old cassette tape and I know my design is flawed, but I want to run the tape for some extended time to try to get useful recordings of surface wave fringes. The tape is getting more and more corrupted and I’m starting to wonder how to recover it.
Ideally I’d like it to be able to handle a few rewinds and re-writes of the tape before it really starts getting damaged. I’d like to get a recording out of it before the tape is just total losses.
What’s the best way to repair the tape so it is still recoverable? If it’s impossible, then what’s the plan B?
I’ve thought about getting a new blank tape, but I’ve tried that in the past and it takes so long to write that I never get the audio recorded.
A:
Ideally I’d like it to be able to handle a few rewinds and re-writes of the tape before it really starts getting damaged. I’d like to get a recording out of it before the tape is just total losses.
There are a few solutions to your problem. Let’s take a step back: if you have a damaged tape, you have an incomplete recording. A damaged tape is probably an insufficient or unstable power supply, low level signal, whatever. What you should do is not try to correct it – instead, try to repair the recording; your source of instability is a bit further up, and you’re dealing with stable component electronics.
All of the following methods are insufficient by themselves to fix a damaged tape. They’re just a temporary stopgap. You need to have a good plan that lasts more than a few hours of use. In particular, there are a few things that will keep you from producing usable recordings and still not damage the tape itself:
Do not rotate your tape drive!
This should be obvious. The only time you should stop the tape is when you want to change it.
Do not use noise-cancelling headphones or earbuds!
The noise cancellation circuitry is likely to make the recording worse. It’s a risk you take. If you don’t have a sensitive enough microphone, you may even make
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